![]() So when communicating with a corsetiere, I recommend providing these verticals as separate measurements rather than using a continuous one. On person B, the exact same corset might make it hard to sit comfortably, but leave part of the rib cage exposed. On person A, an underbust might give inadequate hip and low-stomach support, but push into the bottom of the breasts. It's 4.5" down to their lap, and 5.5" up to underbust. Person B is long waisted, wears their corsets low on their waistline. It's 6" from the waist down to the lap, 4" up to their underbust. Person A is tall, with a high waist line, perhaps full busted. Let's say the underbust to lap measurement of a corset is 10". Two people may have a similar underbust to lap measurement but opposite fit problems. ![]() ![]() I find this method insufficient because it leaves out a hugely important piece of information: the waist level within that measurement. When gauging size for off-the-rack corsets, a lot of people go off of continuous vertical measurements such as busk length or princess line. but that brings us to the issue of vertical measurements.ĭollymop for Dark Garden "Amelia" corset ensemble | Model: Stilletta Maraschino | Photo © John Carey Modern cut overbusts should provide a comfortable level of coverage at the nipples and center front without pushing into the underarm. Lastly, regarding coverage for the bust, make sure to test what happens when you raise your arms! In a flat-front cut, a neckline at roughly nipple level is called a midbust and tends to be historically appropriate. (I also have a prior article that's specifically about finding the right fit of corset for your body type.) A longer vertical space for the bust will also keep from creating a chin-rest out of a full bust. Still, I find that a too-small bust on a busty girl will push down the apex and cause overflow. the vertical space of the cup is sort of equivalent to the width of an underwire spring, but luckily less specific. If you're particularly full busted, make sure the "diameter" of the cup is sufficient. If you're small busted or asymmetric, I tend to find Victorian-style semi-flat fronts easier to fit. Dark Garden Victorian corset | Model: Victoria Dagger | Photo © Laquel Wright
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